Bhagalpur's Golden Threads: The Art and Legacy of Tussar Silk
<div style=' background:#FFFFFF;color:#000000;font-family:Verdana;width:auto;padding:5px;max-height:100%;'><span><p>Tussar silk, also known as tussah, tushar, tassar, and more, is a fine silk variety crafted from the larvae of several Antheraea moth species. These silkworms thrive in the wild, predominantly amidst the lush forests of South Asia, dwelling on trees like Terminalia and Shorea robusta, and feasting on foliage from trees such as jamun and oak. This natural habitat and diet contribute to the unique qualities that make Tussar silk truly exceptional. </p><p><br></p><p>The production of Tussar silk involves a distinctive process. To harvest the silk, the cocoons are dried in the sun. An alternative method allows the silkworms to vacate the cocoons before they are soaked in boiling water to facilitate silk extraction. The resulting fibers are then delicately reeled. Boiling plays a pivotal role in silk manufacturing, as it softens the cocoon, easing the silk's extraction. When the cocoons are boiled after the silkworms have left them, the silk is referred to as nonviolent silk or Ahimsa silk. The silks receive unique designations in China based on the plants the silkworms are reared on, as the silkworms' diet influences silk quality. </p><span></div><div style=' background:#FFFFFF;color:#000000;font-family:Verdana;width:auto;padding:5px;max-height:100%;'><span><p>Tussar silk is renowned for its distinctive texture and rich, deep-golden hue. While it may have a coarser texture compared to cultivated mulberry silk, it possesses shorter fibers, rendering it somewhat less durable. The silk boasts a subtle golden sheen. As a considerable portion of the cocoons is sourced from forests, many consider Tussar silk a forest product. </p><p><br></p><p>India stands as the world's second-largest Tussar silk producer, notably excelling in Indian Tussar, often referred to as tropical Tussar. The production of this silk is largely managed by tribal communities. Regions such as Bhagalpur in Bihar and Malda district in West Bengal contribute significantly to its production. Tussar silk plays a pivotal role in Odisha's pattachitra and West Bengal's kantha stitches. States like Chhattisgarh and Madhya Pradesh also partake in Tussar silk production. In recent times, Jharkhand has emerged as a prominent hub for Tussar silk production. </p><p>Bhagalpur, boasting a Tussar silk-weaving legacy spanning over a century, is home to approximately 30,000 handloom weavers operating around 25,000 handlooms. The annual trade from this industry is valued at around Rs 100 crores, with approximately half stemming from exports. </p><p><br></p><p>Tussar silk's versatility is demonstrated through its use in various products. While the saree reigns supreme as the most prominent Tussar silk creation, it is also a favored material for handicrafts, home furnishing fabrics, and tailored attire. The advent of chemical dyes has expanded the available color range, making it a popular choice for fashion designers. The finely crafted and designer garments fashioned from Tussar silk have gained global recognition and are exported worldwide. </p><p>Additionally, Tussar silk has found its way into the world of soapmaking. The shorter silk fibers are dissolved in lye water, creating a luxurious-feeling soap with a slippery quality. Tussar silk roving is readily available at soapmaking supply stores. </p><span></div>
